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QUESTION & ANSWER FORUM: When to Introduce the Double Bridle
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QUESTION:
When do you consider it appropriate to begin to work the horse in a double bridle? Which criteria would you use? Also, I would like to know whether you consider the choice of how the reins are held depends on the horse or the rider?


ANSWER:
It's smart not to experiment with certain tools before one has received the proper introduction to them. But some people take it a step further and reject the tool or method altogether, just because they themselves neither understand its purpose nor how to use it, which is not so smart.

As far as the double bridle is concerned, both horse and rider have to meet certain requirements in order to be able to use it with success, because it's a "power tool" that was invented to refine the rider's aids and add more nuances to the communication between horse and rider.

You could say that the rider has to earn the right to use a double bridle, just as he has to earn his spurs. The rider has to have acquired enough suppleness and stamina to be able to sit the trot effortlessly for extended periods of time. A rider who is still stiff and unbalanced will rely on the reins to steady himself, and the leverage of the curb bit would only amplify the involuntary rein pressure, which would very quickly make the entire horse stiff and kill the impulsion. A rider who still has stiff wrists and fingers should not use a double bridle yet, either, for the same reason.

The horse has to have mastered the requirements of the basic training, and must be ready for collecting work when you introduce the double bridle.

Seidler gives a brief outline of the standard training succession for the campagne school horse:

  1. Riding straight lines (and large circles)
  2. Introduction to lateral movements (and smaller turns and circles)
  3. Introduction to the canter under the rider
  4. Introduction to the double bridle
In the 19th and early 20th centuries, this was a relatively widespread training progression, and it still works very well today, especially with horses who are not terribly talented for the canter.

As a rule of thumb, you can say that it usually makes sense to introduce the double bridle after the horse has learned the lateral movements and the canter.

As long as there are still major resistances in the poll and neck, it is usually better to work through them with the snaffle, as the curb bit is likely to cover them up instead of dissolving them.

The curb bit with its leverage is especially suitable for flexing the haunches, which is why it should not be used with a horse who is not supple and strong enough yet for collected work.

The snaffle is better suited for lateral bending work and suppling the poll and neck.

In the past, the horse was often prepared for the double bridle by riding with a regular snaffle, plus a bridoon, so that he could get used to the feeling of having two bits in his mouth. The rider can learn how to manage 2 sets of reins that way, without doing too much damage.

There are a couple of etiquette items the rider should be aware of as well. In the SRS, the rider is not allowed to post, when he rides with the double bridle, because at that stage of training, neither horse nor rider should need the rising trot any more. When riding with a double bridle, the rider is always required to wear spurs at the SRS, because if you "double the brakes", you should "triple the gas". Conversely, if someone posts with a double bridle, or doesn't wear spurs, it shows a certain lack of knowledge to a classically educated observer.

As a test for whether horse and rider are ready for the double bridle you can try to ride a figure 8 with a snaffle, with both reins in one hand. If you can do it without the horse losing balance and coming off the bit, you are both ready.

All the different ways of holding the reins have their own advantages and disadvantages. In a way, it depends on what you want to accomplish. When you are introducing the horse to the double bridle, the Fillis conduct is very effective, because you can separate the two bits very easily.

The traditional 3:1 conduct helps in framing the shoulders and the base of the neck. The 2:2 conduct in which the curb and snaffle reins on each side are separated by one finger, is probably the easiest one to learn for the rider, but it's not as effective for the horse as the others.

It can be useful to change the way you hold your reins during the ride sometimes.

-Thomas Ritter


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